A well made shirt will have proportions that fit the body just right. It will neither be too tight nor balloon over the top of your belt when tucked in. At Philippe Perzi Vienna, we have finessed the cut of our shirts over many generations, which today appropriately tapers at the waist, while allowing the right amount of room in the chest and shoulders. Philippe Perzi Vienna shirts are worn fashionably by all body types, which is why we confidently offer a guaranteed fit or your money back!
A cheap shirt will be either too loose and billow around the waist, or the other extreme, too tight so that the fabric puckers and stretches. Arms that are too short will also be a dead give-away. You can always shorten the arms on a shirt, but not lengthen them if they are not long enough.
Having the ability to alter your shirt if you put on some bulk or lose weight is really useful. A well-made shirt will either have a split in the yoke (the panel of fabric across the upper back) or darts down the back. Philippe Perzi Vienna shirts have two darts running down the back of the shirt which gives the shirt its classic tapered cut and also allows a tailor to take in or let out the shirt with ease, if and when needed, and at low cost, without distorting the proportions of the shirt.
A cheap shirt may not have 2 darts or a split yoke at the back of the shirt to allow for alterations. As this is an additional manufacturing process, they may try to save costs.
Pure 2-ply Egyptian cotton is superior to single-ply. Its density lends itself to a smoother, crisper feel and is the finest of finest cottons due to its long fibres. Philippe Perzi Vienna only uses 2-ply Egyptian cotton (and the even more silky and expensive Sea Island Cotton is some special instances).
Usually not 2-ply. Fabric may not be made from 100% cotton but instead incorporate synthetic fibres like polyester.
High yarn count in the range of 80 up to 200s. The higher the yarn count, the smoother, silkier and more expensive the fabric. All thread counts have their place and purpose. Higher is not always better and for some there is such a thing as too soft and silky. Importantly, there other factors at play including the type of weave and mill process. But when it comes to your dress or business shirt, thread count should be in this range. Philippe Perzi Vienna shirts are always in this range.
Low thread count (less than 80).
The best fabric mills are in Italy, Switzerland and Japan – but you can always trust the Italians to have the most vibrant, seasonal and fashionable colours. Philippe Perzi Vienna shirts are made from exclusive fabrics from one of the best shirting fabric suppliers, the Albini Group, owners of Thomson Mason. This quality not only ensures the durability of our shirts, but allows us to create beautiful Philippe Perzi Vienna collections that make your shirt stand out.
Fabrics made at substandard mills like Pakistan or India. No matter what you are told and no matter where in the world you are, you cannot cheat on the price of high quality shirting fabric. If the price of the shirt is cheap, it’s because the fabric is cheap (or they are trying to get rid of it as its season has past).
With the environment and our client’s well being at the forefront of our mind, Philippe Perzi Vienna only uses fabrics that meet the Oeko-Tex 100 standard – that means our shirts are chemical free. It may sound obvious, but not all producers can make that claim.
Cheap shirts are often made from chemically treated fabrics. Don’t be fooled by iron free shirts. They do not exist. They may be easier to iron than a higher quality shirt, but have been treated chemically; they are less durable; and will never match the feel of unadulterated cotton.
COLLAR & CUFFS
Removable collar stays help maintain collar stiffness and keep the points pointed, not curving upwards. All Philippe Perzi Vienna shirts come with collar stays.
Interlining is an extra piece of material sewn in that gives the cuff and collar extra structure for a crisp look and adds some weight. Philippe Perzi Vienna shirts incorporate Swiss-made lining by Wendler of Switzerland, which prevents shrinkage and wrinkling of both collars and cuffs by using superior special fusible lining.
COLLAR & CUFFS
Cuffs and collars may be too flimsy and won’t hold their shape and/or will wrinkle easily. Over time the collar and cuffs of the shirt will show wear and tear.
No collar stays to keep the collar stiff and in shape, which means you’ll get unsightly wayward collar points curving upwards.
The shirt may not have interlining at all or have interlining that is glued. This can shrink when the shirt is laundered as the glue contracts and make the shirt look shabby after repeated washings and ironings.
Single needle stitching or lock stitch where an upper thread “locks” with a lower thread. This gives a nice, flat seam and a clean, finished appearance. And, as you might expect, you’ll only see a single line of stitches on the outside of the shirt. Philippe Perzi Vienna shirts are sewn with single needle side seams.
Double-needle stitching, usually done to save time and money will have two rows of stitches side by side on the outside of the shirt. If a shirt is sewn with double stitching, the seam can pucker easily over time.
A well-made shirt has a high number of stitches per inch, or SPI. How dense is enough? Well, there is such a thing as “too much.” Philippe Perzi Vienna shirts have got it right using a high stitch density of 7.5 stitches per cm. This achieves the fine balance between aesthetically pleasing stitching as well as the formation of a very strong seam ensuring durability.
A cheaper shirt will have seams with low stitch density and may have a tendency to rip or blow out at the worst possible time… like when you’re sitting back in your chair and stretching your hands behind your head or gesticulating during a presentation.
An immediate tell-tale sign of a quality shirt is whether the checks or stripes match in certain areas. For example where the buttons meet down the front of the shirt or where a pocket is placed. The pocket should be placed so that at a distance it’s almost invisible. Mirroring is also important; where the fabric on one side matches the fabric on the other side. Both matching and mirroring require more effort, higher labour costs and more fabric. Attention to detail contributes to a refined, high quality finish.
To save on fabric and labour costs, manufacturers will not be as meticulous about pattern matching and as a result, the shirt will not look as clean and crisp.
No frills shirts will lack the details that lift the shirt from being plain and boring to something more special.