In case you haven’t noticed, there’s been a peacock uprising. A rake-revolution of sorts that has resulted in men dressing better and paying more attention to how they look. They’re concerned with how their shirts fit, how their trousers drape. They know the difference between a windowpane and price of wales check. Suddenly they’re wearing fedoras and applying pomade and oils to well-cultivated beards and following the Instagram feeds of Mr Raro, Mariano Di Vaio, David Gandy and Men with Class. In short, never has there been a more exciting time in men’s fashion to experiment and have fun!
For that reason, Philippe Perzi Vienna has recently added some additional male habiliment to our online store. Braces – or suspenders, depending on what continent you’re on.
In collaboration with Fumagalli, an Italian family-run business with a long tradition of craftsmanship, producing high quality silk ties and accessories since 1891, we are excited to be able to bring our customers these stunning silk suspenders in a variety of colours.
A short history
[Above: Antonio Turino shows us how it’s done, in his usual sprezzy style]
Oscar Wilde, once said, “ Clothes should hang from the shoulder, not from the waist,” and from a man whose dress sense was as sharp as his observations, we should take note.
Braces are one of those vestiges of yesteryear, a nostalgic nod to a time when male adornment was paid particular attention. Partly fashion, partly function, braces are a natty nuance of menswear that have come in and out of fashion over the years.
In an nutshell, braces were once considered underwear, and therefore never revealed in company; they were always covered by a waistcoat and jacket. Throughout history, braces have come in and out of favour, mostly as a result of how the cut of men’s trousers have changed.
During the 1920s, men’s trousers were high-rise, full and pleated which necessitated braces to ensure they draped beautifully. Braces continued to remain in favour during the 1930s as Savile Row’s influence reigned supreme, but then as trousers started being manufactured with belt loops and waistcoats went out of fashion, so too followed braces….that is until Michael Douglas’s character in Wall Street, Gordon Gekko, aroused a new found love of the suspender’s inherent smartness, which was in sync with the era of excess.
Braces: how to wear them
[Above: Mariano di Vaio rarely gets it wrong and he nails it with these narrow leather suspenders]
Suspenders literally ‘suspend’ the trouser, which should sit as high on your hip as possible, whether you’re wearing flat front or pleated trousers.
Your trousers should hang and braces allow the natural pull of gravity to keep the trouser’s front and back crease taut and in place. If you’re going to wear braces, the waistband of the trousers should be a little loose, not too tight, so that they can actually be ‘suspended’ from the shoulders.
Braces serve to enhance the verticality of an outfit, elongating your legs and ensuring the correct balance between suit jacket and trousers, creating an overall more elegant look.
[Nicola Radano is known for his perfect execution of Neapolitan style and here he gives a nod to the dandy movement]
If you’re going to be wearing braces with a tie, ensure that you match these two elements first, then match the shirt and trouser.
In short, the rules are, if you’re wearing solid or striped braces, opt for a patterned necktie that picks up one of the colours in the braces.
Alternatively, if you’re wearing patterned braces, like the ones we have available in our online store currently, opt for a solid or striped necktie and choose a shirt or trouser that picks up one of the colours in the braces.